The crimson maple leaves of autumn bring visitors in droves to Kyoto, where the architecture of its ancient temples and shrines provides a lovely backdrop to nature’s simpler beauty. Classy restaurants fill with the hungry whose second priority in the ancient capital is to splurge on the world-famous local cuisine. Many, no doubt, will pair sake with their food; in unfortunate cases, mass-produced beer of sub-standard taste. Kyoto’s burgeoning craft-beer scene may alter such lamentable practices. There are already three breweries in the greater Kyoto area (a fourth likely to open next year) and craft beer is appearing in a growing number of bars, restaurants and liquor retailers. Kyoto even kicked off its first craft beer festival this year. There’s plenty of reason for hope—and for making the trip.

Kyoto Machiya Brewery (Matsuya Corporation, Kinshi Masamune Group) is the only brewery actually located within the city. Situated inside the Horino Memorial Museum in an unassuming neighborhood with small businesses, it’s easy to walk right past. Part of the building is a restored kura (old folk warehouse) and the tiny museum, if you can call it that, celebrates “everyday life in traditional Kyoto.” The brewery is actually better known for its Kinshi Masamune sake, but brewer Miyoshi Chizuko brings three decent craft beers to the table: a kelsh, an alt and a dry stout. All benefit from the really good water pumped from a well on the premises. Relax at one of the tables inside and pair your beer with some of their delicious seasonal seafood.

A short train ride south will take you to Fushimi, where the Kizakura Brewery is located in a lovely, historic neighborhood. Like others of its ilk, Kizakura is much better known as a sake brewery. Even to those familiar with Kizakura’s beer, it’s somewhat of a curiosity. Their White Nile, Blue Nile and Ruby Nile beer use different kinds of wheat. The wheat from the White and the Blue is an ancient Egyptian strain, and the high-alcohol (7%) Ruby uses a strain that disappeared in the 1920s. How, you must ask, did they revive these strains of wheat? By working with genetic biology teams from Waseda and Kyoto Universities. The website provides an explanatory pdf in Japanese. Whether this homage to one of the world’s oldest beer cultures (hieroglyphics reveal pyramid builders received salaries of beer) succeeds as a beer depends on the drinker—many say it is an acquired taste. If you’re not feeling adventurous, stick to the alt or kelsh. When we visited, they had just tapped a shiso beer that was sweet and refreshing, so you may find some decent seasonals at their lovely pub restaurant (call for reservations).

Shusan Kaido, located way out in the Western hills of Kyoto, has made great strides recently. Their amber ale with excellent body and balance is appearing with greater frequency at craft beer bars in Kansai and beyond. Lone brewer Hayashi Shingo also makes a kolsch and a weizen—his personal pet—with bold aroma and pronounced, fruity taste that doesn’t veer too much into an overwhelming banana burst. The brewery hosts a small, casual restaurant on the second floor but a trip out to the rural valley would only be recommended for hard-core beer fans. The bus from Kyoto winds forever through the forested hills—they might be lovely in the fall, but all that beer in your stomach on the way back can get heavy. Take a nap. Get ready for evening.

No stop in Kyoto is complete for the craft beer drinker without dinner at Tadg’s, the “home of craft beer in Kyoto.” Besides 20+ taps of the fine stuff, they serve great Irish and European food and possess a lively, friendly atmosphere (see our website for full review). For the long train trip home (or some extra stock at your lodgings), drop into Yamaoka, an old-school neighborhood vegetable and dry-goods store with an ample liquor selection that includes around 100 varieties of bottled craft beer. They also organized the Kyoto craft beer festival and we look forward to an even bigger one next year! Cheers.

This article was published in Japan Beer Times # () and is among the limited content available online. Order your copy through our online shop or download the digital version from the iTunes store to access the full contents of this issue.