San Francisco has always been a city of dreams. The California Gold Rush of 1848 propelled the city to regional prominence, and since then it has become a genuine cultural melting pot of America. Large-scale immigration, liberal attitudes and a generally positive outlook have all contributed to the city’s cosmopolitan character. The San Francisco Bay Area as a whole is similarly rich in culture. Its various cities and towns are distinct in their identities, but all seem to share a similar spirit: a fundamental appreciation of the good life. Well, the region’s 7+ million residents have one more reason to celebrate. A craft beer rush is on. The stakes are high. Japan should take note.

Craft beer has become so ubiquitous in San Francisco that people don’t really distinguish between “craft beer bars” and “non-craft bars” so much. S.F. is definitely a “foodie” culture, and the appreciation of artful dishes has most certainly spurred broad demand for craft beer. In Japan, with its world-famous food culture, why don’t we see more craft beer bars devoted to excellent cuisine, or more quality restaurants pairing craft beer with their food selections? This seems like a direction of great promise.

The best food I’ve ever had with craft beer was at Magnolia Pub & Brewery in the famed Haight-Ashbury district. The blue cheese-stuffed fig wrapped in bacon had me dreaming about it for weeks. Many consider Magnolia a classy restaurant first; others, a decent bar first. It’s also a brewery. Not every establishment necessarily aspires to be all three—it’s OK to be just a bar—but the emerging trend is clear. According to a recent report from the Brewers Association in America, such brew-pubs and brewery restaurants have weathered the recent recession much better than their non-craft counterparts.

Haight is also home to the Toronado, a tough, no-frills bar that serves several dozen top-notch regional beers, as well as some fine Belgian brews, all for great prices. It has a reputation for attitude, but we didn’t get any of it whatsoever. Of course, we didn’t try to order water or cocktails, either. We drank, we enjoyed immensely, we moved on.

That night, it only seemed right to drop into Rogue Café in North Beach for their beastly good selection. We thought a visit might pay homage to one of Japan’s craft beer die-hards: Phred, of Ezo Beer, who imports Rogue. Naturally, a poster of Phred adorned one wall and the staff asked after him. For better or worse, who doesn’t know Phred?

Morning comes, and with it, the fog, the chill, the lugubrious air of San Francisco. Grab a Peet’s coffee to start the day right. Eventual destination: the 21st Amendment Brewery, just a few blocks from Giants stadium. The attractive brewery-restaurant boasts a hearty food menu and eight great rotating drafts. The celebrated Brew Free or Die IPA is, if not on tap, available in cans from numerous regional vendors—or on Virgin America flights nationwide! Paying attention JAL, ANA, Skymark? Four other varieties also come in cans. The Hop Crisis Imperial IPA (9.7% abv) is quite the hop bomb at 120 IBUs, but for now you can only get it on draft. Go. Get some. Go Giants!

Thirsty Bear operates nearby with a whole different approach: organic, hand-crafted ales and lagers served with Spanish cuisine. The ten beers include two seasonals and a hand-pumped ale. The brewers seem partial to European beers, but back their recipes with added creativity. The seasonal Rum Runner, inspired by rum, had a lovely touch of molasses for added complexity.

At night the Mission district offers many swank dining options for typically young crowds. The ambience, exquisite food and ample wine list at Monk’s Kettle are enough to impress most foodies, but brewophiles will delight in the 20+ fine drafts and a bottle menu pages long. Here is yet another place making headway with pairings. Pairing dinners are a highlight of each month and the food menu provides pairing suggestions. Around town, we heard a few people question their high-end approach to craft beer. Monk’s Kettle has a bona fide beer cellar and some rare, rather expensive bottles. Fair enough; have the cheaper pints if you like.

Rent a car if you have a designated driver. You won’t want to miss what the sunny northern counties have to offer: Russian River, Bear Republic, Lagunitas, Marin Brewing, to name a few. Many craft aficionados in Japan already know Bear Republic (see article on page 25), thanks to Nagano Trading’s imports. At Russian River, Pliny the Elder is considered by many to be one of the world’s best IPAs. We don’t disagree. We were more interested in the sour beers, however, a category that has taken off recently. There’s no way to prepare for the amazing, swirling aromas or sublime sourness that will have your lips puckering. Consecration is aged in cabernet barrels, Supplication in pinot barrels, and Temptation in chardonnay barrels. Minoh’s refreshing Cabernet is the closest equivalent I know of in Japan, but is less sour by several degrees.

Back in S.F., Speakeasy opens its brewery doors on Fridays for a funky after-work party well worth joining. It’s a casual affair, with guests standing in clusters and enjoying some of the Bay Area’s best beer over lively conversation. Production Manager Matt Walsh joined me for a few pints and explained that he and the other brewers strive for extraordinary, robust flavor. This is apparent to anyone who imbibes their popular Big Daddy I.P.A or Double Daddy, both with bold hop profiles, but their seasonal releases also abide by the same ideal. Matt and crew seem quite committed to the cause, with a cool intensity that no doubt translates into brewing excellence.

I actually lived in Berkeley (East Bay) between 2002 and 06, a few blocks from Jupiter and Triple Rock. I visited Jupiter for the live acts, great pizzas and vibrant, young crowds as much as for the beer back then. I see that their formula for success hasn’t changed at all. The big surprise came when I dropped into Triple Rock, which has always been more of a laid-back brew-pub than the classier, jazzier Jupiter. Friendly general manger Jesse Sarinana and staff have seriously upped the game. One sip of the hoppy Red Rock Ale with its smooth body and subtle caramel finish had me wondering if I was drinking the same brew from years ago. I wasn’t. Jesse explained that they’re not content to stick with a good beer; they want a great beer and will tweak the recipe until they get it. Well, they got it, and a handful of other masterful brews as well.

The East Bay is worth at least a day-trip from S.F. Alas, I had no time to investigate the burgeoning craft scene in Oakland, nor down south. Many famous breweries are noticeably absent from this article, too, most significantly Anchor Steam. There’s just too much for one trip. And when you figure in all else that the Bay Area has to offer, it seems a waste to focus only on beer.

The Bay Area can’t predict the direction Japan will take, but it does offer some potentially valuable pointers. Fine food is so key for many places; it’s never an afterthought. The best bars and restaurants actively cultivate their vibe with competent staff, special events and some kind of unique approach. Cost performance serves everyone’s interests. Finally, bad beer is the enemy. We already knew that.

by Ry Beville

This article was published in Japan Beer Times # () and is among the limited content available online. Order your copy through our online shop or download the digital version from the iTunes store to access the full contents of this issue.