Germany. No other country is more closely associated with beer in the public imagination. Japan even offers ample proof.
When liberalization of Japanese brewing laws in 1994 allowed for the dawning of small-scale brewing in Japan, the vast majority of those early microbreweries began making German-style beers. Like the Meiji-era all over again, German brewers were brought to Japan to work and teach at breweries. Most have left. Notably, Marcus Luczynski, one of Echigo Beer’s early brewers, stayed and now runs one of the most successful brewery equipment companies here (BET), importing machinery and installing it with Hori Teruya of Laff International (both featured in our Spring issue). Meanwhile, Johannes Braun continues to make delicious German brews based on centuries-old family recipes at Otaru Beer in Hokkaido–brews additionally served at Bikkuri Donkey all over Japan (see page 2). Unknown to many, Bavarian brewer Stephan Rager brews German-style lagers at his remote brewery Bayern Meister Bier near Mt. Fuji.
The German legacy is visible in the styles of craft beer available throughout Japan. According to Mark Meli, author of “Craft Beer in Japan: the essential guide” (see page 39), roughly half of all Japanese craft breweries make a pilsner and/or weizen. Many others continue to make other German styles developed from the early recipes they received.
A handful of Japanese craft breweries have produced German styles to significant acclaim. Fujizakura (see page 19) won a gold medal at the last World Beer Cup in the rauch category, and Tazawako Beer (see page 41) won World’s Best Flavoured Beer at this year’s World Beer Awards for its rauch, as well. Fujizakura is arguably one of the world’s best German-style breweries.
In this special feature, we take another look at German beer in Japan, with articles on Chateau Kamiya, Michinoku Fukushima Beer and a charismatic importer. Oktoberfest music please…
This article was published in Japan Beer Times # () and is among the limited content available online. Order your copy through our online shop or download the digital version from the iTunes store to access the full contents of this issue.