by Mark Meli

Autumn is the time for Oktoberfest (though in Japan today it seems it’s always time for Oktoberfest). The first Oktoberfest was held in 1810, to celebrate the marriage of Prince Ludwig of Bavaria, and the tradition has continued to this day on the Theresienwiese outside Munich.

“Oktoberfest Bier” in Germany signifies only the beers of the six breweries in Munich that are allowed to serve at the Oktoberfest, though many other breweries also brew their own “Festbier.” The style of beer served at the Oktoberfest has changed over the years, from dunkel to bock, to its typical present form, a golden lager of 5.5-6.3% alcohol, with sweet, bready malt, low bitterness and little hop character. These are rather plain beers, easy to drink by the liter glass.

For many decades, though, the favorite Oktoberfest style was märzen, an amber lager that would be brewed at the end of the season in March—hence the name. It was stored through the summer and consumed in the fall. Before refrigeration, beer made in summer often got infected and went bad, so no brewing was allowed in Bavaria after mid-April. Märzen was brewed slightly strong, in order to withstand the summer aging process, and contained a large portion of Munich malt, which made it dark and aromatic, closer to a Vienna or a Dunkel than a pale lager. Of the six official Oktoberfest Beers today, Hacker-Pschorr Oktoberfest Märzen is closest to the traditional style (and the best). The others are paler in color.

A traditional märzen is a lager beer, bottom-fermented, and should be deep gold to amber in color. It should be slightly strong, and richly malty. Flavors of bread and caramel are normal. There might be a slight grassy aroma from the hops, but that shouldn’t be strong, nor should the bitterness.

There are many fest beers made in Japan, and they too vary in color. Harvest Moon Oktoberfest is deep amber, with bready caramel malt and a dry, earthy finish. Otaru Festbier is closest to the traditional Märzen, light amber, with grainy malt flavor and a bit of roasted caramel. Baeren Festbier is more like the present-day version, golden colored, fruity and malty, but with stronger-than-usual hopping. If consumed on draught in Japan, any of these will be much more rewarding than the pasteurized German versions that have crossed oceans in the hull of a ship. Drink local this Oktoberfest!

All Beer Styles articles are written by Mark Meli, author of Craft Beer in Japan.

This article was published in Japan Beer Times # () and is among the limited content available online. Order your copy through our online shop or download the digital version from the iTunes store to access the full contents of this issue.