Some conversations with Charlie Papazian

photos & text: Ry Beville

Charlie Papazian. The name almost needs no introduction in the world of craft beer. He’s a craft beer advocate and celebrity at least equal in stature to the late beer critic and author Michael Jackson, Sierra Nevada co-founder Ken Grossman, or the man who saved what became Anchor Brewing, Fritz Maytag.

But in Japan, where homebrewing is still essentially illegal and where craft beer has only recently started gaining mainstream attention, his name and his growing legacy remain relatively unknown. Given the recent energy he’s devoted to promoting Japanese craft beer in a series of highly visible articles in the U.S., it seems appropriate to bring attention to his many achievements in this issue, and to share his opinions on the state of craft beer in Japan.

Papazian has authored several works on homebrewing, including the seminal Complete Joy of Home Brewing, which has sold over 900,000 copies. It’s a cornerstone of the robust homebrewing culture in America, where an estimated one million people brew at home. Papazian further founded the American Homebrewers Association in 1978, an organization with over 28,000 members in the U.S., and over 1000 homebrew clubs across the country. That same year, he began publishing Zymurgy, a magazine dedicated to supporting homebrewing.

The professional brewing community in America perhaps knows Papazian best as the president of the Brewers Association of America and founder of the Great American Beer Festival. Internationally, he is the face and founder of the biennial World Beer Cup, which has grown into a spirited competition with nearly 800 breweries from 54 countries entering 3921 beers in 95 categories! A few years ago, he launched an informal web-based contest where internet users vote for which city wins the title of “BeerCity USA” (we featured Asheville in the last issue).

Incidentally, I first met Papazian at one of the events he founded, the World Beer Cup this past spring, where we were both judges. We sat down for a brief break to chat about the importance of homebrewing. In Japan, current laws prohibit individuals from brewing anything over 1% alcohol, making homebrewing of most, if not all, of the styles of beer enjoyed around the world virtually impossible—or illegal. In America, only Alabama and Mississippi share this unfortunate fate with Japan. What could Japan gain from changing its laws?

“Homebrewing lends health to the craft beer industry,” says Papazian, “If the U.S. is any lesson to be learned, the foundation of its great beer culture has been home brewing. Many of the brewers today became interested in beer through homebrewing. Homebrewers also champion and support new beers that professional craft brewers make.”

But changing laws in Japan is no easy task, especially with few avenues for citizens to lobby lawmakers. I ask what argument we would have to make if we were to mount a lobby.

“Craft beer creates jobs. Homebrewing trains and educates people about beer, and will help build a stronger craft brewing industry much more quickly. I’ve observed many countries where craft brewing has been really successful because of home brewing communities: Denmark, Argentina, Australia. Many people grow up understanding beer when homebrewing is legal.”

The many underground homebrewers in Japan should take heart: Papazian brewed and taught homebrewing classes all through the 1970s, before it became legal in 1979.

“The authorities used to visit while I was teaching. It was obvious because they always wore white shirts and dark ties. But I figured that if I was going to make it for my own consumption, then it shouldn’t be a problem.”

Several months after the madness of World Beer Cup, I had another opportunity to talk to Papazian in a quieter setting when he traveled to Japan for the International Beer Competition and International Craft Beer Conference, hosted by JCBA. Many probably wonder what it’s like to judge with Papazian. I kept thinking, ‘He’s been homebrewing longer than I’ve been alive.’ So, yes, it’s intimidating at first. But he’s been a uniting force in the craft beer scene for the same qualities that make him a good judge; he’s critical when he needs to be, but very fair and balanced about it.
Before and after the programs in Tokyo, Papazian traveled Japan, stopping into many breweries, brewpubs and bars. Articles he later wrote and published in America indicate he got a fairly good glimpse of the growing scene, so I contacted him again about his observations.

Having recently experienced the Japanese craft beer scene, what do you see as some encouraging signs?
I’ve not only seen creative and well educated Japanese craft brewers brewing in world classic traditional styles, but also innovation and the use of indigenous ingredients and processes in making some very creative, well-balanced beers.

What do you think the industry here still needs to overcome to gain wider acceptance?
To gain wider acceptance Japanese craft brewers and the Japanese craft beer community must continue to educate the beer drinker in the value that craft beer provides beer drinkers. Beer drinkers, retailers, distributors and media need to be educated. If Japan craft beer is about flavor and diversity even chefs, hotel managers and bar owners must understand what craft is and the value these beers offer everyone. They need to overcome the idea that all beer is light and tasted the same.

What were some watershed moments for the rise of craft beer in America?
I think one of the most important factors that has occurred is that very young beer enthusiasts now have become managers and owners of their business and are making decidions. One area that has changed dramatically is the understanding of the value that craft beer from small brewers brings to beer distributors in the USA. They understand and are now wanting to distribute craft beers because the quality has improved and the consistency of supply is better. Beer distributors are involved in educating beer retailers, restaurants, hotels, bars, and pubs that beer drinkers want these beers and are willing to pay a little more because they understand the value of craft. The reason this is working is that most beer distributors are independent of brewery ownership in America.

Do you think Japanese craft beer could gain acceptance and popularity in America like American beer has here?
Yes, of course. But the quality must be stable and many small craft brewers should not export their beer unless they have very good equipment and skills and education in knowing how to help preserve the quality of the beer for extended exporting times. Old, stale and oxidized Japanese craft beer in the market place would hurt the image of all Japanese craft brewers.

This article was published in Japan Beer Times # () and is among the limited content available online. Order your copy through our online shop or download the digital version from the iTunes store to access the full contents of this issue.