Shonan brings to mind surf culture. The beach area in Kanagawa has been a mecca for wave riders for decades now, though on most days, the sets coming in are as overcrowded with surfers as a Tokyo rush-hour train. Those times, you might as well sit on the beach with a brew.

Or, even better, visit the local brewery, Kumazawa Shuzô, known in the craft beer world for its Shônan Beer. Tucked away in a quiet neighborhood farther inland, the campus is lush and green with wonderful architecture—one of the loveliest breweries you’ll see in Japan. Much of that was the result of the vision of Kumazawa Mokichi, the 6th generation president of what was once just a sake brewery.

In his early 20s, Kumazawa had little interest in taking the reigns. Japan’s economic bubble had burst and he wanted to go out and see the world. While rambling in America for a year, he discovered craft beer at a time when it was taking off. An idea took root.

Kumazawa went back to Japan in 1993, when the company was in crisis, like many other traditional sake breweries that had to negotiate changes in Japanese drinking habits (read: the increased consumption of cheap beer). But positive change was in the air, namely the revision of microbrewery laws. The brewery got its license in 1996 and Kumazawa took over as president in 1997. Inspired and ambitious, he rejuvenated the company, turning it into much more than just the brewery. The campus is home to two fine restaurants, one a trattoria with delicious pizzas and sausages, the other serving traditional Japanese cuisine. There’s also a bakery that makes fantastic beer bread, and near Chigasaki Station, a branch of their western-style restaurant. Add to the attractions on campus a gallery and shop with traditional wares and, across the street, a garden store, and it almost seems like a tourist destination—we’re waiting for the hotel.

When we visited, however, we were most interested in speaking with their current head brewer, Tsutsui Takashi, who learned his trade by trial of fire.

“I went around to various breweries asking about employment opportunities and got a one year internship while I was still in school. Then, in 2006, I officially joined Kumazawa. Exactly one month later, however, the head brewer quit and I was left with all the responsibility of brewing. Those first two years were hell.”

As any good brewer will tell you, it’s work of the toughest kind; long days and lots of physical activity. You either love it or leave it.

Tsutsui’s passion and dedication paid off quickly. He won a silver medal at the World Beer Cup for their Schwarbier. Previously, the company had won awards in 1998 (bronze for Weizenbock, silver for Schwarzbier) and in 2000 (silver for Schwarzbier). Gold came in 2008 for Tsutusi for his Shônan Liebe.

A German brewer gave the brewery its legs in the early days and Tsutsui inherited those recipes, but explains, “hops and malt have different qualities each year so I always have to adjust. I’ve also tweaked some of the recipes myself. The Golden Ale is completely my own, though.”

Kumazawa’s three flagship beers are their Bitter (pils), Ruby (alt), Liebe (Schwartz), and a chocolate porter, though Tsutsui has brought out a number of seasonals. Besides the golden ale there is a weizen, imperial stout, barley wine and IPA.

“I’ve actually done different versions of the IPA, using different hops, like Cascade for one, or dry hopping another.”

Does he consider the food at the restaurant when pairing, or receive input from the chefs?

“I concentrate on simply making a great tasting beer, not necessarily a beer that pairs well.”

Tsutsui admits to having drunk a lot of Chimay in his teens. “I’d love to make a Belgian like that one day.” But he of course has a bigger dream. “Maybe one day I’d like to have my own brewery. That’s every brewer’s #1 dream.”

Kumazawa Brewing
Kanagawa-ken, Chigasaki-shi
Kagawa 7-10-7
www.kumazawa.jp

Don’t be confused! Sankt Gallen makes a “Shonan Gold,” which is named after the Shonan Orange used in the beer.

www.kumazawa.jp

This article was published in Japan Beer Times # () and is among the limited content available online. Order your copy through our online shop or download the digital version from the iTunes store to access the full contents of this issue.