In the dialect of Cologne (Köln), the word “kölsch” is an adjective describing all things from that city. Kölsch the beer is a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) under EU laws. This means that for a beer to be called a Kölsch, it must be brewed within 50km of Köln. This designation and its style characteristics were laid down in the 1986 Kölsch Konvention, where Kölsch is defined as a light colored, highly attenuated, hoppy, clear, top-fermented beer with an abv of roughly 4.5-5.2%. It must be brewed according to the German Purity Law (Reinheitsgebot), meaning that only malt, hops, yeast, and water may be used. Furthermore, the Convention even describes the glass that Kölsch should be served in–the Stange, a narrow, cylindrical, 200ml glass.
Perhaps no beer in the world is as closely associated with one city as Kölsch is with Cologne. Even Düsseldorf, Cologne’s northern neighbor and rival, is not nearly so strict about its revered Altbier. This does not mean that Kölsch-style beers are not made elsewhere. It just means that within the EU, they cannot be called Kölsch if they are not made in the urban area of Cologne. Brewers in other parts of Germany call beers in this style “Helles”, “Top-Fermented”, or even “Colonia” (the Latin name for Köln) instead. An unfiltered Kölsch is called “Wieß” or “Wiess”, which means “white” in the Cologne dialect and is an unprotected term.
So what kind of beer is a Kölsch? It is a blonde ale, but it’s rare for an ale in that it’s fermented at relatively low temperatures (roughly 15-18 C) and then stored cold like a lager for several weeks. It must be highly attenuated, meaning that little sugar remains after fermentation. It must also have a distinctive hop character.
So a Kölsch will never be very sweet, although it may be malty in the sense of having a rich, bread-like character. It can have some fruity esters, as it is an ale, but these will be rather subdued due to cold lagering. Hops should be noticeable in both aroma and flavor, but these are traditional noble hops, and there is no dry-hopping, so their character will be subtle–nothing like an American IPA. All-in-all a Kölsch is an extremely delicate, understated beer, so much so that beer lovers weaned on hazy IPAs often fail to understand its appeal. For lovers of these beers, however, that is precisely the point. This beer is the height of subtlety, one that tests a brewer’s skills to the utmost, as there is nowhere to hide mistakes in a Kölsch.
There are nine active breweries left in the Cologne Brewers Association, many of which brew several different brands of Kölsch. Indeed, many of the brands around town are contract-brewed at bigger breweries. Small local breweries include Mühlen, Früh, Päffgen, and Sünner, and these all should be sought out. The standard way to serve Kölsch in Cologne is direct from a cask, either wooden or steel, dispensed by gravity only, without any CO2 added. Most of these breweries generally use this method. The gentle carbonation and lack of gassiness in cask beers make them so supremely drinkable that you may easily be able to empty many small glasses. Don’t worry; the famous Cologne waiters will automatically bring you another glass when they see that yours is empty. You have to cover it with your coaster if you want them to stop.
It’s the opinion of many who have been to Cologne, including this author, that Päffgen Kölsch is simply the best. It comes from the smallest brewery, is only served from casks, and can be found only at the brewery taproom or at establishments that meet the strict requirements of the brewer: namely that it is taken care of properly and sold quickly. As oxygen is allowed into the cask, it does not stay fresh longer than a day. Päffgen Kölsch is light and crisp, and has a fruitier, grassier, and more pronounced hop character than most of the others. The malt sweetness is mild and bready. It is very easy to down several glasses of the beer, and quite impossible to stop at just one.
Several authentic Kölsch are imported to Japan, but I have yet to find any that are fresh enough to really enjoy, since most are in bottles and have not been kept cold. Various Kölsch-style beers from America make their way here as well, and although these are often in better condition, they are usually far too hoppy for the style. One exception is Chuckanut Kölsch, which is sometimes imported to Japan.
Perhaps your best bet is to try out several Japanese-made Kölsch-style ales. Since the birth of small-scale brewing in Japan in 1994, dozens and dozens of beers labeled Kölsch have been released. The vast majority were nothing like the real thing: often they employed British or American-style ale yeasts fermented at high temperatures, and were far more estery than a Kölsch should be. Others were far too sweet, or too hoppy. There are several good, authentic-tasting Kölsch made here now, however. One of the oldest is from Tazawako–always crisp, light and clean. Recently they have made a dry-hopped “Citrus Shower” version as well, which is also nice, though far from anything found in Cologne. Locobeer’s Sakura Kaori no Nama is slightly sweet and fruity, but retains a typically high drinkability with a dry finish. Daisen G-Beer has released a limited-edition Kölsch that was spot on, with light, lemony and spicy hops and a rich yet snappy malt character that just had you reaching for another glass. Let’s hope they make more of that. My favorite this summer was TDM 1874 Leitungswasser (Tap Water) Kölsch, a summer seasonal. It has a malty, bready nose, with lemon and orange notes from Hallertau Tradition hops. There is a rich, biscuity malt flavor, with just a touch of sweetness and light fruity esters. It’s lemony and crisp–a very refreshing summer drink.
Most other Japanese Kölsch are seasonal or limited in release. Baird Old World Kölsch is released every autumn. Baeren Colonia– a quite authentic one indeed–comes out from time to time. Devil Craft, Y. Market and Marca have also released a Kölsch recently, and Nara Brewing has released two. If you are ready for some beer subtlety, grab a few and compare. And try to get a Stange for the tasting. It really does make a difference.
All Beer Styles articles are written by Mark Meli, author of Craft Beer in Japan.
This article was published in Japan Beer Times # () and is among the limited content available online. Order your copy through our online shop or download the digital version from the iTunes store to access the full contents of this issue.
