Last year was momentous for craft beer in Japan. In this “Best of 2013” list compiled by the Japan Beer Times, we recognize some of those that contributed to a great 2013. We realize that “best” lists are always controversial and that much of this may be due to personal taste. If you have a strong opinion, write us and let us know! (Note that our choices are not tied to any kind of advertising or partnerships)
Best brewery: Minoh Beer (Osaka)
After patriarch Ôshita Masaji passed away suddenly in late 2012, there was a lot of worry about what would happen to a business as busy and socially-connected as Minoh Beer. Would Kaori, his daughter and also the head brewer, be able to handle the pressure of running the company? She and her team not only survived 2013, they thrived, stabilizing the quality of their many best beers and garnering several prestigious awards along the way. The Beer Belly taprooms in Osaka continue to build Minoh’s customer base and the Minoh brewers are frequent attendees at festivals and events. There will be another big announcement coming out of Minoh Beer this year, but you’ll have to wait for that!
Runner up: Baird Beer (Numazu, Shizuoka)
It’s hard enough to consistently make excellent beers year after year, but Baird Beer cranks out fantastic seasonals at a pace matched by no other brewery in Japan. As if that weren’t sufficient for recognition, they also manage four excellent taprooms. They’ve maintained quality standards, too, while building a huge new brewery—talk about cool under stress. Not what you might expect from the brewer of Angry Boy.
Best brewer: ???
Internally, we debated this one to no end. There was a strong case for Shiga Kogen’s Sato Eigo (backed by a talented team), who released some truly amazing beers last year. But did he outdo Chris Poel of Baird Beer who never seems to fail to come up with something new? What about Miyashita Hiromichi of Fujizakura, who time and again brews some of the world’s best German-style beers? Do we discount him because he only brews in the German tradition? One staff member pushed for Nakanishi Masakazu of Isekadoya, for continued excellence in brewing despite an extremely busy year with events. In the end, we couldn’t decide and didn’t want to go with one of the many good dark horse candidates.
Runner up: Tsutsui Takashi (Shonan Beer, Kanagawa)
When was the last time you heard somebody say, “Wow, Tsutsui Takashi of Shonan Beer is a great brewer”? Despite generally great beers and a slew of awards under his belt, including some World Beer Cup hardware, few seem to give this young brewer the credit he deserves.
Best cellarman/cellarwoman: Kido Hirotaka, Popeye (Ryogoku, Tokyo)
Managing 70 taps of craft beer is no easy task. But this isn’t just a numbers game. Kido keeps their system clean and running at peak performance while also intimately understanding all the great beers poured through them. Describe to him what kind of beer you like and he’ll definitely have a few suggestions ready in a second. Kido also graciously penned our “Beer Curiosity” column for the first three years of the magazine. We had actually hoped to publicly recognize him for his contributions at our Yokohama Winter Beer Bash last January but things got really crazy that day… So Kido, today’s your day: thank you for all your good work. We speak on behalf of thousands of fans.
Runner up: Eldad (“Dede”) Bribrom, Goodbeer Faucets (Shibuya, Tokyo)
It’s not just the 40 taps and expansive bottle cellar that Dede has to manage which earns him this distinction. The guy simply knows a lot about the beers he serves, whether they are domestic, Belgians or American imports. This is a cellarman who won’t serve you crap. (Hint: order “Dede’s balls” next time you visit)
Special mention: Tani Ai, Craft Beer Base (Osaka)
Following the success of her bar-café-bottle shop Craft Beer Base, which carries a great selection of Belgian and American import bottles along with domestic gems, Tani opened Craft Beer Base Seed, a wonderful little craft beer corner in the Hanshin department store.
Best bar: Popeye (Ryogoku, Tokyo)
We tried to find a reason not to give it to Popeye. It’s not because we don’t like the place. It just seemed too obvious. “If you can only go to one place, go to Popeye” seems to be a common mantra among craft beer lovers. Sure, Kido (“best cellarman” above) and the 70 taps make a difference, but it’s more than that. There’s always a jovial buzz in Popeye—it’s hard not to leave in good spirits. The food isn’t mind-blowing, but is certainly affordable pub grub. The staff, meanwhile, works like a Swiss clock, rarely missing orders or making you wait. It’s no secret that owner Aoki Tatsuo is spending less time at the place, what with an eye to retirement and a special project in his hometown in Niigata, but that just offers more evidence of a strong team at work here.
Runner up: Craftheads (Shibuya, Tokyo)
This will no doubt be a controversial pick. Many consider Craft Heads a little pricey, but at few other places will you find a better selection of import and domestic craft on tap. Owner Nomura Koji also maintains a rare bottle cellar if you want to splurge. He’s hired cool staff that maintain great service and atmosphere. The vast improvement in the food over the last year also helped their case.
Best food/restaurant: Roti (Roppongi, Tokyo)
Executive chef Ian Tozer is a culinary master and obviously sees his work as art. Roti is actually better known for its wine, but thankfully began serving a few selections of craft beer a couple years ago. The food is Western fusion cuisine and the place is really classy. If you want to eat more affordably, definitely go during lunch. Considering a lavish party? This is the place to book.
Runner up: Gotemba Kogen Beer’s Grand Table (Shizuoka)
This major craft brewery’s on-campus restaurant (one of several) offers a buffet with craft beer like no other in the country except for maybe Fujizakura’s. Gotemba wins out, though, for the sheer variety and ridiculously affordable cost.
Special Mentions: Bashamichi Green (Yokohama’s best!), DevilCraft Kanda (drooling at mention of Chicago deep-dish pizza already), Nakameguro Taproom (fantastic revamp of the menu in 2013), Keg Nagoya (never leave hungry), Gastropub Ales (even other chefs in Fukuoka admire them).
Best retailer: Asahiya Liquor Store (Osaka)
Inokuma and crew run this crazy little shop in northeastern Osaka—definitely worth a visit if you’re in town because its selection is excellent and the staff, very friendly. They also have monthly beer parties that are a blast.
Runner up: Tanakaya (Mejiro, Tokyo)
Still Tokyo’s best, this elegant store has been serving craft beer fans for years with a wide selection, including some rarities (probably imported secretly).
Special Mentions: Yamaoka Liquor Store (Kyoto. Best selection in Japan, perhaps, but a little inconvenient), Antenna America (Yokohama. All import, but all great), Shimizu Sakaten (Niigata. The Niigata countryside is in heaven).
Best festival: Tanabata Beer Festa Toyama
Everything feels right about this festival. It’s very community centered, with local food vendors lining the plaza. It’s outside in the middle of the hot summer, but with plenty of shaded areas and a clear roof in case it rains. The prices are reasonable. There’s plenty of seating and it’s family friendly. Live music is not too loud. And it’s in the Japanese countryside—a great place for a weekend getaway.
Runner up: Hop Revolution
The organizers at Drinks Media Japan have really outdone themselves. This wasn’t a festival; it was party! (see write-up on page 51)
Old School award: Towers (Tokyo Station area)
Before there was a craft beer boom, before most people even knew what craft beer was, in fact, Towers was serving it at its humble standing-only bar not far from Tokyo Station. Years later, Towers has not changed its formula: a decent selection of beer for fair prices in a casually comfortable and intimate setting. As craft beer bars pop up everywhere, with each seemingly trying to outdo the other, let’s all hope places like this don’t disappear. Sometimes you just want a pint before home.
Runner up: Aldgate (Shibuya, Tokyo)
Hanaka and his staff have been running this English-style pub for as long as most craft beer fans in Tokyo can remember. And there’s no reason for them to change their ways. Good beers, good selection, good prices, good food, good LP record collection!
Special Mention: Mugishutei (Sapporo)
Japan’s first international craft beer bar, dating back to 1549 when owner Phred Kaufman first arrived in Japan. Or was that missionary Francis Xavier?
Best Beer?
You let us know: info[at]japanbeertimes.
We’ll publish the results in the next issue!
This article was published in Japan Beer Times # () and is among the limited content available online. Order your copy through our online shop or download the digital version from the iTunes store to access the full contents of this issue.
