by Mark Meli

Bitter is a very English style of beer. It’s still somewhat rare and little understood outside the UK. A “regular” bitter is usually amber or copper-colored, contains less than 4% alcohol, and is served from the cask as real ale. These are session beers—made to be consumed in large quantities. They have a malt sweetness that should be noticeable yet restrained, often including caramel notes. Hops should be prominent. Traditionally, English varietals are used, like Fuggles or Kent Goldings. You should be able to both smell and taste them, though they won’t be as dominant as in an American-style pale ale or IPA. Their aromas will have less citrus or tropical fruit, with floral, grassy, or even tobacco notes instead. Served as real ale, bitter will have very light, soft carbonation, and of course it shouldn’t be too cold. Low in alcohol and moderate in sweetness, bitters are light and clean on the palate, with a crisp and bitter finish. Most bitter brewers also make a “Best” or “Extra Special” Bitter: stronger versions of the beer, with richer flavor and more body.

These are beers that are meant to be consumed as fresh as possible, usually sent out unpasteurized in casks so that they will continue to mature over the several days it takes until they are gone. When bottled, bitter is often labeled “Pale Ale” in the UK, and it sometimes has a bit more alcohol.

Only a few Japanese craft brewers regularly make real English-style bitters. There is always a house bitter on the hand pump at Baird’s Nakameguro Taproom, though the recipe rotates and it is often a best bitter with more alcohol. Minoh English Bitter has changing malt and hop combinations, but it is always low in alcohol. Iwatekura Pale Ale comes very close to a regular bitter in strength and character—very English.

You might also try an imported English bitter from the bottle or keg for comparison. Fuller’s London Pride and Shepherd Neame Spitfire are classic examples that are easy to find in Japan. If you ever see Timothy Taylor Landlord, though, be sure to try it—it’s the best in the world!

This is one style of beer that we would like to see more Japanese brewers focus on. With its low alcohol content, it’s a beer we can enjoy in the afternoon—or all evening, and still make it to work the next day!

All Beer Styles articles are written by Mark Meli, author of Craft Beer in Japan.

This article was published in Japan Beer Times # () and is among the limited content available online. Order your copy through our online shop or download the digital version from the iTunes store to access the full contents of this issue.