Aqula beer has made its way into the consciousness of many a Japanese craft beer drinker these days, in part because of its growing availability. We stopped in during a snowy night in March, taking a brief respite from relief efforts in Tohoku, and then again during Golden Week to make sure it was really as good as we remembered it. It was.
Head brewer Hasegawa Makoto has ambition and confidence, and it shows in the bold styles of beers he has been making recently. His background, however, reveals itself in the more traditional varieties of brew he continues to make.
Hasegawa obviously learned much of his trade during a few months in Germany and under the original brewer at Aqula, who was versed in German beers. He admits to having adjusted the recipes over the five years he has been working as head brewer. He originally came just to work part time while still a student. Why here? Why beer?
“It was completely random.”
For about a year now, he has explored styles beyond those with which he honed his skills. His IPA has been a hit among many recently and is appearing with increasing frequency at craft beer bars throughout Japan.
“I brewed my IPA three times before I thought, there, I’ve finally made something that tastes like it should. In the beginning, I didn’t know a thing about dry hopping. How much should I use? I now rely on cascade hops and a little Centennial for dry hopping.”
His forays into other styles have met with success, too. The cherry blossom yeast in his American wheat lends a distinctive flavor, though without ruining the subtle balance of the brew. The biscuit weizen has typical, but not overbearing fruity sweetness and good body. Hasegawa revealed that he is also brewing a Belgian IPA, a white ale and an amber ale. He generally focuses on ales, he says, because of the predominance of lagers among the big breweries in Japan. We suspect some imperial styles are not far off.
Aquala Brauhaus is an attractively designed structure not far from the station. The attached Bier-Kaffee Aquala has several tables and bar seating in an aged, wooden interior that feels rather intimate. Servings come in small (300ml) and large (500ml), though we highly recommend the all-you-can-drink special. Restaurant Platz, meanwhile, seats up to 100 guests and can accommodate parties. On your way to your next destination and want something for the train? About ten varieties of bottled beer, including seasonals, are available.
This article was published in Japan Beer Times # () and is among the limited content available online. Order your copy through our online shop or download the digital version from the iTunes store to access the full contents of this issue.
