Mojiko Retro more than makes up in quality where it lacks in diversity. Although the small brewery in northern Fukuoka only serves three fairly standard flagship beers, most people would probably not be disappointed by any of them. Its roughly 15 years of success―measured, at least, by its consistently good beer―owes much to its head brewer, Minematsu Kônosuke.

The company launched in 1997 but didn’t open its doors until April of 1998. During much of that intervening year, Minematsu claims he studied mostly by drinking (he later attended Siebel and the National Research Institute of Brewing in Hiroshima). He worked partly in the attached restaurant, partly in the brewery until finally becoming the head brewer in 2003. For much of his tenure, he has continued to make three legacy beers from inherited recipes: a pilsner, weizen and pale ale. He only introduced his first original-recipe beer―a delicious amber―this past year.

Minematsu admits, “I had to dump some weizen in the beginning. It’s tough to make. But in general, these past four or five years have been OK. I also visited Fujizakura in 2008, where head brewer Miyashita gave me some valuable tips.”

Mojiko Retro’s beers are characterized by a wonderful maltiness, especially the pale ale. Minematsu brews some seasonals, including a summer weizen and, in the winter, a dunkel weizenbock and regular weizenbock. He also brews a few house beers for other bars, noting that even the IPA he makes is malty.

Only a handful of places outside Mojiko serve the beer. Beer fans should visit the brewery restaurant anyway. Besides the beautiful views, 320ml glasses are only ¥480 and 500ml, ¥650. Get 1800ml pitchers for ¥2300.

“I want people to visit,” says Minematsu, “I want my beer to promote us and the city. Guests can drink and see this lovely port.”

And lovely it is. Almost as much as the beer.

This article was published in Japan Beer Times # () and is among the limited content available online. Order your copy through our online shop or download the digital version from the iTunes store to access the full contents of this issue.