Beer Roundup (Spring 2018)

One of the more interesting revelations from the recent winter Olympics for many people was that German athletes were drinking non-alcoholic beer as a recovery drink following their races. This isn’t a recent development, either. For years, German athletes have been drinking quite a lot of it after training and competition. The popularity of this practice among winter athletes largely stems from Bavaria, though it is widespread across Germany thanks to production from high-profile breweries like Erdinger and Krombacher. It certainly benefits from savvy marketing as well. The two company’s non-alcohol beers were readily available in Olympic Village, and winning German athletes were pictured with massive mugs following their races. But given Germany’s success at the Olympics, was there something more to this? Several major media organizations, including the New York Times and NPR (National Public Radio) in America, reported on the science behind it.

Such beer may act as a health elixir because of polyphenols. One of the early researchers, Dr Johannes Scherr of the University of Munich, discovered in 2009 that athletes who consumed these compounds (in non-alcohol beer) experienced fewer bouts of respiratory sickness and also reduced inflammation. The grueling training and competition athletes put their bodies through can compromise immune systems, so the benefits to respiratory health were certainly welcome. But reduced inflammation means non-alcohol beer could help athletes recover more quickly. Conversely, while not stated in the mainstream media reports, it is well known that alcohol can cause inflammation, among other potential deleterious effects on performance–thus the seemingly obvious recommendation for athletes to consume non-alcohol beer or at least very low alcohol beer.

Also of note, a lot of these beers are isotonic. This means that their sugar level is similar to your body’s, which aids in hydration. According to many of the athletes, they also taste good! With several hundred non-alcohol brands in Germany, there are plenty to choose from. Japan is no stranger to non-alcohol beers, either, even if it doesn’t have quite as robust a selection as this. Japan’s industrial breweries have been making them for years, and count among the world’s largest producers of them. While little known to most, in the craft beer world, Hitachino Nest has even produced a decent non-alcohol beer.

Most craft beer fans (and many mainstream consumers, as well) are not partial to non-alcoholic beers, to put it mildly. People have long cited inferior taste as the primary reason, though clearly the Germans might scoff at that notion, claiming they’ve been making decent tasting versions for years. It seems, however, that production methods are improving in other beer cultures, and that the quality of flavor is quickly rising. According to a 2016 study in the UK, in fact, a third of consumers had tried non-alcoholic beer and many couldn’t distinguish a difference in flavor from alcoholic varieties (possibly, some were already drunk). The world’s largest beer companies–including ‘the’ largest–are taking non-alcoholic beers very seriously, as are a number of craft breweries.

In a March 1st earnings call, ABinBev’s CEO Carlos Brito stated that non-alcohol and low-alcohol beverages make up a respectable 8% of the company’s portfolio, which includes acquired craft breweries like Goose Island and mega brands like Budweiser. However, the company expects that number to expand to 20% by 2025 based on consumer trends. Other large producers like Heineken, Diageo (owner of Guinness) and Carlsberg are equally as bullish, and all have non-alcoholic beers. By all accounts, North America remains a largely un-targeted market. It will be interesting to see how the thousands of craft breweries across the continent respond if the trend continues to strengthen. And will we see a non-alcoholic bourbon barrel-aged beer from Goose Island? Who’s to say innovation and consumer demand won’t make something like that happen…

Price hike on the turnpike?

Late last year, breweries across America, large and small, cheered the passage of a controversial new tax law. It was controversial because it included massive tax cuts for corporations and America’s wealthiest individuals, but quite possibly (many experts pointed out) at the expense of social welfare benefits for the middle class and poorer citizens. Brewers cheered because the law included a provision that reduced excise tax levied against them. Both the Brewers Association (the trade group which represents craft brewers) and massive industrial brewers had been lobbying for relief for years. Some breweries admitted that there would be no savings passed on to consumers; they would likely use the money for hiring and infrastructure improvements (we know of a few, too, that had conflicted feelings over the law, realizing they were receiving financial relief at the potential cost of healthcare improvements, for example).

The euphoria, however, didn’t last long. As many know, President Trump announced steel and aluminum tariffs. Guess whom that negatively affects? Have you noticed what canned beer is packaged in? Industrial brewers were the first and loudest to cry foul. Beer-related trade groups followed suit. The Beer Institute, for one, noted that even with exemptions for Canada, Mexico and Australia, the move would create what amounts to a $347.7 million tax on American brewers, and quite possibly the loss of tens of thousands of jobs. Oskar Blues, which exports to Japan and is famous in the craft beer community as a pioneer of canning, noted that the tariff would likely cost its business more than $400,000 a year. Meanwhile, as we write, Japan is lobbying to be included among the exemptions. Will the earlier tax cuts help to mitigate the effects of the tariffs? Or will consumers, including Japanese ones who drink American beer, inherit the extra cost? As the International Monetary Fund chief Christine Lagarde said in early March, “No one emerges victorious from a trade war.”

Who wants trade wars when we have beer diplomacy?

Kaori Oshita, owner/brewer of Minoh Beer in Osaka, recently visited Taihu Brewing in Taiwan for yet another collaboration beer (we previously ran a picture in the Postcards column of issue #29). This popular brewery, run by spirited youth with a particular zest for life, is no stranger to Japan, either. Its employees have visited several times for competitions, festivals and other exchanges.

According to Kaori, the beer they brewed this year used koji (sake rice-mold) brought from Japan, Taiwanese rice and quinoa for spicy character. Its base recipe was a pilsner, and the beer is light colored with low 4.5%ABV. They haven’t named it yet, but we’re sure it’ll be good!

In other domestic news, baseball season is underway in Japan. That means a handful of baseball beers from craft breweries. As many know Yokohama Bay Brewing makes “Baystars” branded beer for the local Yokohama DeNA Baystars stadium. Recently, the team also opened a craft beer bar across from the stadium that will serve Bay Brewing’s beer and other domestic selections. In Tohoku, the Rakuten Eagles have beers made by several regional craft breweries. There are six in total this year, with Be Easy, Tazawako and Gassan Beer being of the newest members. We wish every stadium in Japan did this!


This article was published in Japan Beer Times # () and is among the limited content available online. Order your copy through our online shop or download the digital version from the iTunes store to access the full contents of this issue.