Tazawako has more than a few unique charms, including one craft brewery whose consistent excellence we can’t overemphasize. We first visited years ago and were pleased to recently discover that Tazawako Beer has only gotten better with time. Too few people beyond this quiet corner of Akita are familiar with the beer, but it’s never too late to start an acquaintance.
Komatsu Katsuhisa has something of the spirited gankô oyaji (stubborn old man) to him; he won’t compromise his brewing beliefs, and expects the assistant brewers to follow his disciplined approach. He doesn’t make any apologies because he doesn’t have to. Delicious craft beer is a powerful statement from a brewer.
Komatsu was originally working at an expensive hotel, and explains, “Guests wanted beer, but always filled up. I thought, What would go well with food? I ordered beer samples from around the world and it was complete culture shock.”
Knowing little about beer, but recognizing its potential, he investigated further and discovered that laws in Japan would change to reduce the yearly production requirement of 300 kiloliters. In 1993, a few years before the 60 kiloliter rule came into practice, he broached the idea of a brewery with his hotel and they agreed.
“There were no schools in Japan at the time so I went to Germany in 1994, using my own money and my own vacation time to stay for a month. But when I came back, the hotel had changed its mind, saying the risk was too high.”
Luckily, a chef in his company shared a similar vision and in 1996 suggested they do it themselves, there in Tazawako.
“I apprenticed at Echigo beer for about three months, and then at the Siebel Institute for two weeks before opening.”
Most brewers overseas, and increasingly in Japan, have to go through years of training. But Komatsu was out in the wilderness, literally and figuratively, in that early age of craft beer in Japan. There was no turning back. Tazawako Beer launched in 1997.
“I thought of all the recipes myself, but adjusted them over the years.”
His favorite?
“I don’t have a favorite. If you always drink the same beer, you get sick of it. I drink what suits my mood.”
The first few years hit some snags, as they do. Komatsu notes that the hops and malt he initially got were excellent.
“I drank my first few beers and thought, I must be a genius. I got frustrated when I couldn’t reproduce the same taste later. I then tried to get the best ingredients, but you just can’t always do that in Japan.”
Komatsu has adapted by sourcing ingredients locally. Tazawako Beer grows some of its own hops and wheat. Komatsu even makes some base malt. Their refreshing Sakura beer uses wild yeast from cherry blossoms and is 100% a Tazawako product.
Recent trends and industry noise don’t seem to distract Komatsu. He doesn’t make American or UK-style beers and admits, “I don’t really like Cascade hops.” He doesn’t care much for contests either, but entered some festivals so their salesman might have a selling point, as if the superior quality of the beer were not enough for the Japanese market.
Toward the end, we get some good laughs. He trained at the same time as Honda and Watanabe of Swan Lake Beer and remarks, “When I saw those youngsters, I thought, Can these guys can really make beer” (For the record, they make world-class beer; see our last issue).
Komatsu’s humor comes through in his candid nature, as does his passion.
“I just want to drink. Beer is like food—how can you give it medals?”
We don’t know. But we’d like to give this solid-gold guy one. He certainly deserves it.
If you’re traveling to Tazawako, we highly recommend visiting the gorgeous blue lake—Japan’s deepest. You can rent bicycles and ride around it, though it may take a couple of hours. There are several hotels and onsen along the water—we like Katakuri no Hana, from whose private outdoor bath you can see the lake. The local tourist organization is very friendly and helpful, and has staff with some English-speaking ability: www.tazawako.org
This article was published in Japan Beer Times # () and is among the limited content available online. Order your copy through our online shop or download the digital version from the iTunes store to access the full contents of this issue.
